Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Saturday, May 02, 2009

May Day in Cuba - On the Road Again


Looks like it was quite the event, can't believe I missed it. Apparently, the travel ban is still on from flights in and out of Mexico. I was hoping to fly through Mexico on Tuesday, we'll have to wait and see. Here in the airport in Quito and once again - free wifi! Every one in fifty passengers is wearing a silly-looking surgical mask. From what I've read, they only help get the germs from someone that is sick from spreading to others. Still, I've already washed my hands twice this morning, and I've only been up for two hours. At least I made the flight this time - Chau!!

Monday, April 20, 2009

A Traveler´s Notes - Ecuadorian Comments

The camera and I are back in action like Action Jackson, moving furiously forward for the last big week in country; including the Colombian border trip to Tulcán and then, the AMAZON! Crazy glue can work wonders on modern electronics - shhh - don't tell them back at the factory. There's a service advisory out for this specific problem and they will be replacing the entire internal chassis once the job is finished, otherwise, the job was finished.
  • 'Travelers Diarrhea' they call it in my Moon Handbook... Cormac McCarthy calls it the 'drizzilin shits' in Blood Meridian. Dehydration got the best of me a week back but after sampling all flavors of Ecuadorian Gatorade and a few hits of Imodium, I'm now back to 90%. Changes in altitude, climate and temperature on a frenetic pace works work wonders on the body. A great way to clean the colon though...
  • Came across a GIANT earthworm up in the Bellavista cloud forrest. It reminded me of a few weeks back when I visited 'Love Apple Farms in the Santa Cruz mountains and Cynthia, the owner, dared me to eat one of her wriggling red worms fresh from the compost bin, which I did. Protein, lots of protein (I've seen Man vs. Wild eat far worse). This sucker, however, would have fed a whole family!


  • Panama hats actually come from Ecuador and can cost upwards of $600 and take about 6 months of manual labor to make a hat that is so finely woven, it'll hold water without leaking a drop. They used to SHIP out from Panama, hence the name
  • Che Guevarra is alive and well in the hearts and minds of the Ecuadorian people, many of them at least.
  • Museums are closed on Monday's here too.
  • Latin American buses - unforgettable. Can't believe I forgot how gnarly they can get on the steep and curvy one-lane mountainous dirt roads, especially in the rain. Like Ethan always said, ¨guys like us are going out on a bus off a cliff in Bolivia.¨ (paraphrase)
  • Butterflies are always so beautiful, especially to photograph up close and personal
  • Latin American dogs are the best and Ecuadorian perros are no exception. Pick one up with direct eye contact and a simple nod of the head at any local beach and you've got a best friend for the day, free of charge
  • Straddling the equator at 0,00,00 latitude was cool, for about 5 seconds
  • The indigenous Sierra communities are so united that they recently amended the constitution to give them their own governing rights. A few weeks back one small mountain town caught a man stealing a radio and BURNED HIM ALIVE - the whole town blocking the regular policia national.
  • Anyone that travels to Quito should eat at La Boca del Lobo in La Zona Fuch (gringolandia). Simply amazing
  • Received a shot list today for Havana and glanced at it oh so quickly. I did see trannies as well as several nightclubs and some jazz on the list. Still frantically finishing Ecuador while staying sane at the same time before mentally moving on
  • The planes come in overhead on final approach for Runway 35, dangerously low and loud remembering that Military Beechcraft that crashed here a few weeks back. I actually saw the apartment building cordoned off up on the hill today next to www.tierradelvolcan.com 's office where it went in. Pity
  • National elections are this Sunday. I've seen more candidates names for mayor in more towns than I could ever remember. I'd vote for Freddy in Atacames though... 'Freddy por Alcalde' (mayor) was all he wrote.
  • Catching a 6:30AM bus to Otavalo, then Ibarra with a lunch stop at some hacienda and ending up late afternoon/early evening in El Angel, one of the best Ecological Reserves in the world. Chau!

Monday, November 03, 2008

OBAMA WINS BIG!

Ironically, my official free Obama 08 campaign button just arrived in the mail from MoveOn after more than 8 weeks. (They did say it'd take awhile and it was free). It came in a huge, padded somewhat faded drab manila envelope and is so tiny - about the size of a slightly over-sized quarter - that I almost missed it inside the giant envelope. But just in time indeed. Although I'm not a big button wearer, now I can proudly wear this historic button on the plane Tuesday, November 4, 2008 as I make my way towards ground zero in Chicago - Grant Park for the big celebration on Tuesday night.
My latest photo assignment - shoot 44 locations in Chicago at the beginning of winter in 12 days - lands me smack in the middle of American history X - REAL HISTORY! Hope and change have been the central tenants throughout the Obama campaign and I for one am super excited, especially after twenty years of apathy and disillusionment. To have BARACK HUSSEIN OBAMA just two or three days away from the presidency, a BLACK man headed to the WHITE house... wow! So awesome! Stay tuned for updates from Chicago, and then some pretty travel photos of that great city.

- Goyo

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Sleepless List of Random Thoughts

  • Talked to Marina last night who is now relocated to Azerbijan in the middle of nowhere in what sounds like a giant mud pit. "I've never seen or had to deal with so much mud before in my life,"she tells me as I catch her on her cell phone during breakfast, calling from my computer, just after finishing my dinner of bacon fried rice. We are now 12 hours apart in time but might as well be on different planets. She wants news on the election...
  • I finally added Fairlights "Daily Polaroid' blog to my peeps who blog section.
  • Reading Tim Cahill's 'Pecked to Death By Ducks' book of adventure short stories, first hand account of burning oil fires in the first Gulf War and sneaking up on Grizzlies in Yosemite, wondering what the hell I'm doing hunkered down in this urban wasteland, watching the economy go down the drain... worrying if I'll be able to make rent next month.
  • "Oh yeah, not having a car is probably going to rule out most of my girlfriends," says Dave's friend when trying to figure out who she could possibly set me up with, not that I'm looking to be set up with anyone, seriously. "Really, hmm... never thought about that," I responded. "Actually, most girls are probably looking for guys like us to probably own a house by now too," Dave adds.
  • Went to the horse track for the first time in years with Dave and aforementioned girl and picked 1st or 2nd in the first four races. Not bad for an ex-handicapper, even though I was only betting $2WP. It was free hat day, couldn't miss that.
  • Cafe Biere across the street now has 12 taps with some really good beers on tap. They have a happy hour special now on weekdays btw. 5-7pm where these yummy pints are only $3. And Jenga is FREE!
  • Yeah... stuff like that is what I've been thinking of. Don't spend money, times are tough, hunker down, it's almost winter, winter in America. Stock up on raw meat, just like that grizzly up in Yellowstone did. Then go bury yourself in dirt and take a long, long nap.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Travel - How It Itches, Burns, Stings and even KILLS

Barely appeased (at ease) with becoming a cube-bound, computer-staring, office chair-wearing traveler at best (for now), I hopped onto my local 57 westbound bus over to the conveniently located neighborhood Barnes & Noble bookstore and picked up Chuck Thompson's road weary words 'Smile When You're Lying - confessions of a rouge travel writer,' trying to quench my delirious thirst for that next curious adventure just beyond todays reach. (*)


I'd briefly read about the recent 'scandal' with (ex) Lonely Plant author Thomas Kohnstamm which then led me to Robert Reid's review and comments of Kohnstamm's new book, 'Do Travel Writers Go To Hell?' There, Reid touts Thompson as the true author of the book (Smile While You're Lying) that Kohnstamm was ultimately trying to write - an insiders scathing attack of the travel industry at large and of travel writing itself. LP insider TravelBurro says that while Thompson's book is a bit long at times, its 'pretty fucking funny' and that Kohnstamm is a great guy but it seems like his book was 'a little rushed'.

On the back flap, the SF Chronicle calls Thompson 'reminiscent of' my main man David Foster Wallace (or at least that writer that I love to praise but secretly might not like as much as I preach). (see post above)

Like this passage about when Thompson is teaching English in Japan - living large as an expat. "The school's star Ping-Pong player and I could barely communicate, but we battled after school on an ongoing basis. Despite forcing her into dozens of overtime thrillers, I never managed to beat her. She was a mystery to the Japanese as well as to me, a gawky, five-foot-ten, one-hundred-pound girl with a mouth that could go weeks without opening, limbs like a grasshopper's, hair as limp as boiled noodles, slightly bulging eyes (which I mean in a good way - I've never minded a touch of Grave's disease in my women), and the filthiest backspin serve east of Beijing." Besides our noon-time running club (killed it today with a monster 5-miler) the other saving grace in my current life-as-an-office-worker is the grand ping-pong table next to my office and the daily death matches with Foley and Fletcher.


Thompson's living abroad experiences mixed with his paid travel abroad writing gigs provide a compelling background for any aspiring traveler, writer, travel writer, photographer, travel photographer and the other 25% of US Citizens that even have a passport. But mainly the US passport owners that actually use them. He's also from Juneau, Alaska and has some heavy-hitting commentary that is most relevant today considering a woman who is trying to be one heartbeat away from the big red button in Washington. Mainly that Alaskans sold out to big business and oil back in the 1980's with government 'pay back' checks to each Alaskan starting at $1,000 per person for their part in the oil boom. Still happening to this day even.

Moments of brilliant clarity and insight, sometimes more about things here at home than abroad abound. To the teachers of America:

"American public school teachers have the world's best PR operation going. Whining every chance they get about how demanding their jobs are, how many "extra hours" they put in, how little they make, how much of their own money they have to spend just to do their jobs, how noble they are working this job that nobody ever asked them to do - welcome to the fucking world."

On that note, I'll end as I'm only half way through it...

* I'd really gone over to Barnes & Noble to get a copy of 'The Places In Between' by Rory Stewart which is one of my all-time favorite travel books for Marina as she prepares to head over to Azerbaijan to do her 2.4 year tour-de-peace in the Peace Corps. More on our beloved Corps, including a lovely little diddy by Chuck Thompson later. Thank y'all for reading.

** Overly reveling in Chuck Thompson's cute and at times 'funny enough' little smirk-at-the-travel-writing-world as I prepare to sleep before the 9-5 kicks in bright and early tomorrow morning, I am jolted upright after reading page 174 sub-titled - No Cabbie Quotes. By the end of the next page I damn Chuck to hell and find myself thinking out loud, "you're a fucking dead man." (Not dead as in really dead, but dead like he uses real in his own book.) He wraps up his little sub-section, "my list of directives for writers and editors" on why cabbies are the bane of society and why any respectable travel writer would NEVER quote a cabbie goes like this, "The only reason a writer quotes cabdrivers or other service-industry minions is to disguise the fact that he or she didn't want to deal with the hassle of drumming up any authoritative local sources (emphasis added). Think of all the cab-drivers you know. You don't know any. That's because in every major city in the world-London excepted- taxis are driven by impoverished foreigners who don't know SukhumvitRoad frojm Euclid Avenue, work insane hours, talk to their buddies on their cell phone all day, and fall asleep as soon as the off-duty sign lights up. Cabbies having their fingers on the pulse of a city is the biggest travel myth since 'Hey, we can stop and get reliable directions at the gas station.'"

Having been a former cabbie in San Francisco where MANY of my brother and sisters are excellent resources and ambassadors to the millions of travelers AND tourists that visit our beautiful city (yes, many of them are from foreign lands, still one of those melting-pot facts that make us unique around the world) AND knowing a handful of EXCELLENT cabbies in Buenos Aires, many of whom I consider deal friends, great family members, impassioned locals and EXCELLENT 'authoritative local sources', you are now on my official shit list and you and your publisher and your publicist and agent and yourself will be hearing from me soon, Mr. former founding editor of 'Travelocity Magazine'... sheesh (funny how a quick Google search of this aforementioned magazine shows a few brief mentions about its launch from 2000. Maybe it should have been called TRAVELOFFITY)! Cabbies of the world that usher your sorry-ass around unite - you will have a change of heart, when you're not out slumming it on some limo-driven press junket at the latest 5 star resort in the Dominican Republic.

*** Now I'm pissed at myself for flying off the handle at Mr. Thompson. I choose to buy his book and I'm choosing to read it. And sure, I've had my share of un-knowing and infuriating taxi cab drivers around the world. I think really though, I'm saddened and frightened by DWF and his recent suicide. With all his talent, accolades and brilliance and he still choose to check out at the not-so-tender age of 46. Farewell.

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Stuff to Learn and See By #1

Things I've observed, learned, seen or heard in the last little while here in Costa Rica.


  • The women are all bigger, browner, rounder and really like to strut their stuff about town. True Latinas.
  • No problem getting corn tortillas or HOT SAUCE anywhere!
  • Gallo Pinto = Yummy
  • Watching the US Tennis Open on ESPN2 'en vivo' at some café here in San Jose and Zabaleta is falling apart. He threw his racket at the ground and it bounce back at him almost hitting him in the face. I'll never be able to watch or even play(*) tennis again without thinking of DFW's 'Infinite Jest', which I read half of (500 pages, super small print) in Argentina.
  • Pretty sure I'll go back too Argentina but just in and out of Buenos Aires this time. Still have to get to Patagonia, Salta, Jujuy, Tucuman and beyond... like the CHACO!
  • Came to Costa Rica with no sunglasses OR rain jacket and just bought a pair of Ray Bans on the street from a vendor for $5USD... down from $10USD without even trying. Didn't have the heart to bargain him down further.
  • I've got a kick ass travel coordinator based out of San Jose that works for www.ticotoursandadventours.com named Carolina who is helping me with logistics big time. She's got to renew her visa (she's Venezuelan) and we're off to Panama this weekend. She's a morena and sexy... and has made the difference for this trip. Thanks Caro!
  • Love the morochitas... but not too morochita
  • Costa Rica, or at least San Jose is really, really lush and tropical, obvio. I'd forgotten about Central America's natural beauty.
  • Gotta get to Colombia, Venezuela (with the new British passport) and then Brazil!
  • Forgot my camera cable to connect to the local computer to upload these stellar pics of the Caribbean Coast
  • My bank account is in a state of crisis.
  • They have trannies here too
  • It rains a LOT
  • $500 Colones = $1USD
  • My neck where the camera strap hangs got totally sunburned the very first day I walked around in San Jose.
  • The sun is starting to come out as the clouds part. I put my new fake Ray Bans on. Already got a mini-umbrella for $2USD. Now I just need a rain jacket
  • I really miss playing tennis, left my racket in BA with Luis. Maybe Diana in LA will be up for a few sets next month
  • They have cartoneros here too but they just don't have carritos, just big black plastic trash bags.
  • B R E A T H E... and the rest will come

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

It's Over...

After sleeping all day on a couple of different AirBus A-320's and dragging my tired self through the airport in Lima, I wake up and find myself in San Jose, Costa Rica. Never been here before, never even wanted to but am now stoked to be here even though its 'the rainy season'. It's a hell of a lot warmer than BsAs. I'm back on the road and this is about the exact opposite of the big city life of Buenos Aires.

The joy of traveling... my plane ticket today was actually for tomorrow but I showed up a day early with too many overweight bags with most of my worldly possessions in them. Can't believe I broke THE cardinal rule on traveling light... why do I have that damn Photoshop Camera RAW book in my bags that weighs like 2.5 kilos?!

My salida from Buenos Aires was so hectic and haphazard that I had no idea what really went down. Well, I do remember I went to the Boca Juniors game yesterday with Luis and his two sons Pablo and Martin in the freezing cold rain for one last blue and gold victory. Of course, how could I forget my final bife de lomo steak at Desnivel San Telmo? Oh... was shooting at Palacio Alsina nightclub (on the gayest night of the week, literally) at 1:30am, 4 hours before my flight left was scheduled to leave had I chosen the correct day to fly.

Chau for now Buenos Aires, don't cry for me too much Argentina and lots of hugs and kisses to mi familia porteña which I will miss dearly... for now. And an extra special thanks to Tommy for all of his hard work, patience and diligence on this past assignment. The good news is that its never to late to teach and old dog new tricks in this digital age we live.

Tuesday, June 05, 2007

Restless in BA

I’ve been reading more this past year than in recent memory – currently, ‘Who Needs A Road’, by Harold Stephens & Albert Podell – about their Trans World Record Expedition back in 1966 in a Toyota Landcruiser and a Willy's Jeep. I also recently finished Rory Stewart's best seller, ‘The Places in Between’ about his solo walk across Afghanistan in 2002 in the middle of winter; braving snow, mountains, bandits and solitude, with the 120 pound Bull Mastiff that he was ‘given’ along the way – pretty damn inspiring and a real look inside Afghanistan, one that almost no one will every be able to do as he did. I also caught up on IanWalk’s blog about his journey from Tierra del Fuego to Alaska, also alone and on foot, inspired by a llama. He got to Columbia and had to break back to the States for lack of funds and is now substitute teaching somewhere outside of Portland.

Reading about the Trans World’s trek through Egypt reminds me of the time I went to Egypt back in the early 90’s to shoot travel videos. They are all suffering from something they call ‘Cairo colon’, something I remember very vividly. We were in some government office building trying to get all of our confiscated video gear back when it hit – a god awful green spew coming from both ends of my body. Five days had already passed and we hadn’t shot one frame of video. We did ride horses across the Sahara, gambled at the posh tourist hotel across from the pyramids where we were staying, posed for pictures with camels in front of the pyramids and woke at dawn to the wailing calls to prayer. All I remember wanting was to stop shooting all of the tourist shit and pop into one of the smoky cafes that we rode past on horseback down some back alleyway, the back route to the desert. That’s what I wanted to shoot way back then.

And here I am, living large enough in BA with as many comforts as could be hoped for anywhere – a life that I could barely afford back in San Francisco, nothing romantic about it at all, more mundane than anything. And I’m sleepless, restless… longing for the road, longing to travel – for perpetual motion – for the journey itself and I’m mad at myself for wanting. And for perceived laziness and for such freedom to dream up such discontent.

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

Ride the Whirlwind

It’s 1am - Buenos Aires - and I haven’t even started to pack. Since my Argentine visa expired a few months ago and I need to travel back to CA for PTK’s and BC’s wedding, I decide I need to be at the BUE airport early to deal with the immigration officials to ensure a successful departure out of the country… better leave at 4am for a 7am flight.

After a $50AR ($17USD) fine at the airport for the expired visa (sin problemas), more than twenty hours of flying on three seperate flights through Lima and then San Salvador (first time flying into Salvador after sixteen years), I finally make it back to my home state of California, just in time for a super carne asada burrito at El Farolito in the Mission and a Bohemia beer with Cal Santos, who graciously met me at SFO, not only providing a couch to crash on but an entire room to disengage from the whirl.

Then there was one full day to debrief, fight off jet lag and then a good twelve hours of sleep before it was back it – up at 5:30am to catch a 6:20am train to San Jose, just over an hour south of San Francisco for non-stop meetings both day and night with other team mates from across the country. Then a Friday afternoon run back up to SF in hellacious Friday afternoon traffic, on to BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) and then over to West Oakland where DM was waiting in the BMW Z3, up to Pato’s place in Berkeley, hop into the Jag and on up to Dillon Beach on the California coast at Tamales Bay just an hour north of SF. What an amazing place - the northern California coast - like no other place on earth.

But enough about me… here’s some recent pics.